Are Clothes Made from Recycled Plastic Sustainable?
Hot take: Recycled plastic is still plastic.
Plastic Production in the Fashion Industry
Over 60% of the clothing produced worldwide is made from synthetic fibers (such as, polyester, nylon, acrylic, lycra, “vegan” leather); of this, 80% is polyester-based.
There are various ways to develop polyester, the majority of which is derived from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) production. PET is a thermoplastic polymer (read: plastic) made from crude oil (a nonrenewable fossil fuel). ~60% of PET production goes toward fiber production, as compared to ~30% that is used in the development of plastic water bottles, and the remaining 10% for other products.
A recent trend in the fashion industry is to recycle the latter 30% into clothing which initially sounds like an attractive form of sustainability. Except for one tiny detail manufacturers forget to disclose — processing plastic into clothing is a highly toxic process, exposing numerous chemicals to consumers, garment workers, and the environment alike.
How is recycled plastic marketed?
Before diving into the implications of this sustainability venture, it is important to know as a consumer what to look out for when shopping. You may see recycled plastic in clothing marketed as made from “rPET” (recycled PET) or from “post-consumer water bottles”.
The main advantages boasted by brands using rPET in clothing production include lowered energy and resource usage in clothing production and decreased plastic ending up in landfills and the ocean. But, is there merit to these claims? And, how does rPET usage impact human health? Let’s dive in.
Note: it is much more prevalent to see pieces made from rPET than from recycled synthetic fibers, as recycling post-consumer fibers is a much more intensive — and almost impossible — process due to the fact that most clothing is made from a mixture of various types of fibers, along with extra components like zippers, buttons, and labels.
Health Implications
PET Production
The main catalyst in PET production is antimony trioxide, a probable carcinogen and possible endocrine disruptor, as found in manufacturing workers who are directly exposed. PET manufacturing releases a large amount of antimony directly into the environment. As a “priority pollutant” according to the United States Environmental Protection Agency and the European Union, antimony can bioaccumulate in water and airways, posing potential ecological risks on all forms of life.
Antimony exposure has been linked to pulmonary issues - particularly in occupational exposure - as well as gastrointestinal tract issues, increased blood cholesterol and decreased blood sugar, upon drinking contaminated water or contact with contaminated air. However, another study shows that it takes 38 days of a water bottle being heated to 150 degrees Fahrenheit for antimony to reach unsafe levels, suggesting it may be less of a risk than other elements in plastic production (as, hopefully, you are not in an environment that reaches those temperature levels!).
Overall, these health risks of antimony are troubling, as a study done on the migration of trace elements from clothing to skin detected antimony upon wearing polyester clothing, supporting the ability of chemicals to move from clothing into the body.
In addition, the manufacturing of PET produces 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct. 1,4-dioxane has been detected in drinking water and is categorized as a probable human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and an emerging environmental contaminant. Studies focusing on exposure in drinking water on animal models showed adverse health impacts on the liver and kidney. Despite these health concerns, there are no federal or state maximum contaminant levels for 1,4-dioxane. These findings are especially alarming when we talk about increasing PET production into clothing.
Microplastics
The breakdown of plastics (both virgin and recycled) into fibers releases microplastics into air and waterways. (Similarly, microplastics are released every time we wear or wash a piece of synthetic clothing.) In fact, studies have pointed to polyester and man-made fiber as accounting for more than 90% of airborne microplastics.
As such, exposure can occur by ingestion, inhalation, or dermal contact as microplastics are ubiquitous in the environment. Microplastics have even been found in human heart tissues and linked to heart attack, stroke, and death (check out my full video coverage on the latter here).
Exposure to microplastics has been linked to the disruption of immune function and neurotoxicity, as well as negative respiratory issues, particularly in garment workers directly involved in fiber production as these fragments can accumulate in the lungs and result in chronic inflammation and tissue damage. Airborne fibrous microplastics may also carry pollutants, enhancing their potential health risks.
Beyond humans, microplastics have been shown to impact marine life as plastic fibers can enter waterways through wastewater and discarded plastics. They are potentially ingestible by marine organisms, thereby making their way through the food chain. Finally, as PET is not biodegradable, it and its residue microplastics will last in the environment essentially forever.
Endocrine Disruptors
Petrochemical-based fibers, whether they are virgin or recycled, are inherently health-negative. From plasticizers to finishes that make clothing water-, stain-, or wrinkle-resistant, synthetic fibers are doused in endocrine disruptors (such as phthalates, BPA, PFAS, and formaldehyde, to name a few) that are added in both the processing of virgin and recycled materials.
Endocrine disruptors can potentially impact fertility (in both women and men), neurodevelopment and glucose metabolism, disrupt thyroid function, and increase risk of cancer. For example, toxic levels of BPA were detected in sports bras and tops from 19 highly popular athletic wear brands by the Center for Environmental Health. Although many water bottles are marketed as BPA-free, there is very little pure PET on the market. In addition, BPA is used in fabric production to improve their lifespan, give them moisture-wicking and anti-static properties, as well as help fix dyes to the fabric - so the presence of BPA may not have anything to do with the plastic source itself. Read more on BPA here.
Other examples of endocrine disruptor-based fabric finishes are PFAS which are used to make clothing waterproof/water-resistant and stain-resistant, as well as formaldehyde which is used in the finishing process of clothing production to make the piece wrinkle-resistant, as well as resistant to mold, fix dyes to fabric, and for bleaching. See more about endocrine disruptors in fashion and how to avoid them here.
This is alarming, as our skin is our largest absorbing organ, so anything that sits against it (especially for long periods, such as clothing) can be taken into our body and impact its functions. In addition, studies have shown that chemicals can run off of fabrics upon contact with the skin, especially when sweating.
Garment End of Life
As previously mentioned, clothing made from recycled plastic is not from previously worn synthetic clothing - it comes from plastic water bottles. Once plastic water bottles are recycled into clothing, and the clothing reaches end of life, it is discarded. Whereas, the original plastic water bottle used to make the clothing could have been recycled back into more water bottles, creating a circular chain of recycling materials. The use of rPET into clothing thereby breaks this circularity chain (meaning, it stops the overall recycling process).
In addition, the use of rPET in clothing is more difficult to recycle in the long run - which is exactly the problem we are trying to avoid. Due to the various components of clothing, as well as the multitude of chemicals and dyes used in their processing, clothing in general is difficult to recycle.
According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation,
“Globally, 73% of the materials used to produce clothing are landfilled or burned at the end of their life, while less than 1% of old clothing goes on to be used to make new clothing.”
As compared to pure PET water bottles, which are more straightforward to recycle back into a water bottle, and have a recycling rate of 29% in the US.
Recycling plastic into clothing is merely another avenue by which to create clothing that will have the same fate as the rest of synthetic pieces - ending up in a landfill. Say, isn’t that where post-consumer water bottles end up, anyway?
Where do we go from here?
Now that we have explored the implications of rPET use in the fashion industry, we can see that the previously mentioned claimed benefits of rPET usage do hold up. rPET usage does not stop plastic from ending up in landfills and the ocean. In addition, the largest source of emissions in garment production is attributed to dyeing and finishing - both of which are still steps needed in recycled plastic-based clothing production.
Brand transparency
As we can now see clearly beyond the greenwashing that is recycled plastic, we have to remember that knowledge and awareness are the catalysts in making change. We as consumers control the fashion market with our purchases. Looking for transparency from the brands we love is the best way to hold them accountable and show that we want clothing that is beneficial to our body and our world. This should not mean sacrificing style, this means being more creative with the earth given resources we have. Look into companies that offer sustainability reporting (for example, see MATE The Label’s impact reporting here) and ask questions to brands that do not in order to make conscious decisions while shopping.
Alternate resources
The earth is full of natural elements perfect for fiber production (think: cotton, linen, wood pulp, hemp, the list goes on). Recycling is still a good thing, but it’s what we use it for afterwards that really matters. So keep recycled plastic where it belongs ‑ such as in building materials and outdoor furniture. Better to furnish it than to fashion it.
If you are not yet convinced, leave with this final thought: Why should we continue to use a material that is harmful, when our world is full of alternate, regenerative possibilities? The aim should not be to reintroduce toxicity into our world for the sake of simplicity, but rather look for other natural substances that can better serve the purpose. Think of recycling plastic in fashion like a bad relationship you keep going back to until you realize, isn’t it time to find someone new?
Plastic-Free/Low Brands
When you are ready to shop for new pieces, the below brands design clothing from primarily all-natural fibers that are beneficial for you and our world, minimizing plastic use*.
Clothing and Accessories
MATE The Label ~ organic cotton lounge, daily, activewear, intimates
Use code 15LYDIAD for 15% off
Pangaia ~ science-forward materials company developing lounge, active, and daily wear
California Cloth Foundry ~ plant-based daily wear, dyed with botanicals
All Species ~ textile arts and design studio designing regenerative garments and textiles
Aktiiv ~ biobased activewear
Subset ~ organic cotton women’s and men’s intimates
NADS ~ organic cotton men’s underwear
Use code LYDIA10 for 10% off
Cuyana ~ responsibly made leather goods, clothing
Zen Running Club ~ biobased running sneakers and accessories
Prota Fiori ~ fruit leather women’s luxury shoes
Sans Matin ~ responsibly sourced leather daily sneakers
Use code LYDIAD15 for 15% off
Allbirds ~ merino wool sneakers
Home Goods
AIZOME ~ organic cotton and botanical dyed bedding
Use this link for 10% off your first AIZOME order
Ettitude ~ bamboo lyocell bedding and towels
Use code LYDIA for 15% off your purchase
Ogee ~ botanical-based makeup
Use code LYDIA_15 for 15% off your purchase
Linne ~ plant and mineral-based body care
Use code LYDIAXLINNE for 15% off
*Please note, some brands above may use a small amount of elastane or other plastic-based fiber for stretch, as well as dyes or finishes that may be plastic-based. However, they are focusing on plastic-free/low approaches to clothing development. It is difficult to make something 100% plastic-free, but these brands are pioneering the approach towards a plastic-free/low world!
**If you buy something through my links, I may earn an affiliate commission, at no cost to you.